I am ANGRY! I will STOMP!
Every day, a flag-lowering ceremony takes place at Wagah Border, which connects India and Pakistan via the Grand Trunk Road. The border, the only official land crossing-point between the two countries, separates Amritsar, India and Lahore, Pakistan. Each day, the 45-minute ceremony involves a carefully choreographed “standoff” between Indian and Pakistani soldiers, ending “in the lowering of both flags and the slamming of the border gates.”
The daily Wagah event is a popular tourist attraction, but rather than it being a show of hostility between the two nations, an atmosphere of jovial patriotism coexists on both sides. The ceremony is an exhibition of force mixed with cooperation, reminiscent more of dance battles than military aggression. It even ends with a handshake between the participants.
If only all our issues could be resolved with a handshake. Below is a video of the ceremony:
CHUP! - Changing Up Pakistan 
was that the guy from goodness gracious me?
Yes!! He is hilarious, he’s the “check please” and “Kiss my Chuddies” guy: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hIZyMflLFmo
Great post! I crossed into Pakistan in 2006 at Wagah. I stomped my way right across the border with a Welsh guy for the UN earthquake-relief stuff. My favorite memory was taking a squeaking peddle rickshaw to the gate, but the show was great too. Can’t wait to go back this fall.
Yep, thats Sanjeev Bhaskar. His family originally form Pakistan. The clip is part of a programme he did for the BBC for an India/Pakistan season a couple of years back. He crosses the border from India in Pakistan and visits the village his father is form in Pakistani Punjab.
I saw this ceremony in 2003 from Pakistani side. I can’t remember much. It was my first day in Pakistan and all my brother and I could think about was the intense heat and humidity. It was the middle of August!
RAS and Max,
Thanks for sharing your experiences – I can’t believe I’m Pakistani and have never seen the ceremony, must make the trip soon!
If you ever get the chance to be in the area do Wagah (which is bigger but the two nations are further apart) and after that Kasur (which is a lot smaller, but the two people are a lot closer). Kasur is less touristy, and of course the country side there is great. Until now you can’t cross the border there yet though. But on the Pak side they are investing heavily in upgrading Ferozepur Road which does hint at their anticipation to open it again at some point.
[…] url: "http://teabreak.pk/the-india-pakistan-border-ceremony-42/23127/" }); Read more at: CHUP! – Changing Up Pakistan amritsar india, border gates, chup, cup of tea, flags, handshake, hostility, image credit, […]
“I will outstomp you!!”
Haha,
Reimas, your reply inspired me to make a funny caption for the picture above. All other alternative caption ideas welcome.
Well I am a regular to Amritsar and wagah is just a 45 Minutes drive from the city. Have been there a couple of times and everytime I stand there, the excitement levels never subsides. The atmosphere is so electric and the Disciplined show by the Rangers and BSF are extremely charging. The aggression in the entire drill on either side makes the crowd go crazy with patriotism.
This is the only Indo Pak Border which has this ornamental appeal to this daily ritual followed (which is followed on all other border check posts too). I have been to the Hussaini Birderpost too but it lacks this kind of aggression and also the crowds.
Last time I was at Wagah Check Post in Jan this year and the crowds on the Indian side would have been a good 2,00,000 plus. We literally had to spend almost 1 hour just to search our vehicle and another to get out of the parking lot that day.
Must say that the crowds on the other side were equally vocal as we were and pehaps that is what makes this such a special event everyday.
A small incident which I remember and made a deep impact on me was when a couple of Egrets flew in a a curve formation from Pakistan side into Indian side and then back into the Pakistani side. The only thought that came to my mind was why have complicated things so much for ourselves when other inhabitants of the planet are so simplified in their approach. Hope we can emulate those egrets in future.
Thanks for bringing this up Kalsoom.
Thanks for sharing your experience, TTV! I promised a friend of mine that when he visits Pakistan for the first time, we’ll both go to Wagah border to see the ceremony. It will be my first time seeing it as well!
I’m going to Amrtsar and would like to watch this ceremony. Do you know at what time does it takes place?
Thanks!
Wow– that is very impressive. Thanks, Kalsoom. You just added something to my list of things to do next time I am in the neighborhood.
Cant believe the timing! I am going to the Indian side in the next weekend…(15 and 16th Aug) along with Amritsar trip.
If only visas and movement were made liberal, I could have visited Lahore.
Great!
Do let us know how it goes – come back and comment. Safe travels!
Balaji, I suggest that you reach Wagah Early. 15th August being a weekend, alsmot half of the Delhi Crowd and that of Punjab and Haryana would be in Amritsar. My advise, reach the spot by 1.30 pm. And try and get the best seats. Since its not rained at all, the HEAT is going to be killer.
Also, if there are women going in there with you, then ask them to keep their purses at the hotel, security does not allow to carry them inside. Thirdly, again since its an weenend, take a Public Transport like a shared auto to the Check post from the Highway. YOur own vehicle may prove to be difficult to search and later exit from the rush.
All the best, have a great experience.
You have to go. You really must. I need to go to cos I’ve heard it’s amazing.
PS: Never been to Lahore myself but when I do go, I will go see it. Maybe soon.
Yawar,
I thought as a Karachiite you never wanted to go to Lahore! Haha, kidding – but I honestly love Lahore, it is a beautiful historically rich city. I’m def going again soon.
Nice post. You are invited to write for our website, pakistandesk.com so that more readers can read your write ups.
We welcome opinions from all sides: the majority, the dissenters, the contrarians.
You can contact us at pakistandesk@gmail.com
Regards.
very nice photo,pakistan zindabad
you pakistanis and muslims do not seem to that bad,after all
Makku… I know we are not bad but the best in the world… but you Indians are the worst creature on this planet… we soon will reveal your ugly face to the outside world.
Alam,
Sorry dude but please ignore ppl like makku. They are a shame to their respective countries.
I am an Indian but would love to visit pakistan sometime soon… one of my things-to-do-before-i-die!
first of all well done with the website. i have seen the ceremony my self and it is amazing. secondly alm and makku u both should be ashamed of urself. And thanks for rahul for being nice i hope there r more indians who think like u.and i hope their r more paki who dont view each other like enemies
Wonderful display of a closing ceremony! Need to see this sometime.
Love to India from the US
INDIA ZINDABAD
Wagah-Attari is the mecca of jingoism in the world. I so hate it.
-Sid, India.
This ceremony is not as aggressive as people translate it to be. It has become more like a tradition or a ritual and a tourist attraction. We should keep hostility out of it and just enjoy it as something which still bonds us with our neighbors.
I disagree, dear Mansoor. I have been to this ceremony many times… and each time, I could hear some anti-Pakistan statements from India’s side, and some anti-India statements by the Pakistani side… all from the crowd of course. People yelling mindlessly. Of course, not everyone is like that. But the point is, a good proportion of the people are.
If this is a “tradition”, it is indeed a sad one.
I don’t see how this “bonds” us. If we want bonding, maybe we should have a musical concert there every evening.
Thanks.
Been there once
One big ‘Nautanki’, I must say.
@Siddharth: I agree with you Siddharth. It’s the people who do it in sheer emotionalism without ever realizing what and why are they doing this. Because they are brought up on these lines purposely and you can understand what where I am pointing. That is why it is very necessary to change the mind-set of people across the border. Tolerance and acceptance of each other in its true spirit will get us forward. Hatred and loathing will only keep us at bay.
Very true, Mansoor. Many people just do it because they are conditioned to hate each other. Anyway, may love and peace prevail over hatred and bigotry.
Well, I have been to lahore a couple of times and have visited wahga border so that i can see the guards taking off the respective country flags.
it is so good to see that people from pakistan and india gather in their respective borders and watch the parade amicably.
i wish indian and pakistanis could become more friendly so that we can have peace in the region.
the only way to have prosperity for people would be to spend on betterment of people rather than spending billions on defense.
we should be friends rather than enemies
Salaam!
I agree with you.
Pakistani Government and Indian Governments are both EXTREMELY corrupt.
They have the power and money to manipulate common people
To make matters worse, our history of violence is not good either.
Still worse is the number of terrorists in both countries. Fanatics who kill others for their own glory.
And who pays the price of this violence?
You & Me, ofcourse.
So our responsibility is take sensible steps to avoid it.
First we raise our objection to it, stay united and everytime we get angry, think of the mothers who mourn their children. That is the only way!